Thursday, May 15, 2014

Juliet, Pictures, Pisa and More

This place is magihal. I say magihal behause that is how everyone pronounces their “c” sounds in Tushany. They are such a beautiful, intelligent, warm people.

I learned more about these 17 contrade this week: this rivalry is serious business. At times two different neighborhoods will line up across from one another, with the police and the ambulance on hand, and when someone yells “go” they run at each other, fistfight for a minute or less, and then dissipate quickly. To join a contrada, you pay a fee and then you are (literally) baptized into the contrada. The only rules during the horse race are that you can't hit another player's horse. It's the horse that wins, even if the fantino (rider) falls off. This has been going on for centuries. There is always some nasty politics, with riders getting paid by both their own contrada as well as receiving an under the table sum of cash from a rival so that they will lose. But if you are caught betraying your contrada, you are publicly shamed and someone will likely beat you up if they catch you on the street.

Romeo and Juliet? They really lived! We were told yesterday that they were originally from Siena. Someone wrote down the story, and Shakespeare read it and embellished it, with the city of Verona as the main stage because he knew that city better. But Romeo and Juliet were from different contrade, and that is why their families hated each other so much.

We went to see the leaning tower of Pisa yesterday. It REALLY leans! It is hard to walk up the stairs because you lean one way and then the other, but it is so beautiful up top. We talked to a Napolitana couple who had been married for 25 years on the train ride home. We asked them what the secret to their successful marriage was. They answered, “Litigare sempre. Poi chiedere scusa.” “Fight all the time. Then make up afterwards.” They said as long as you are fighting, you are communicating sincerely. They said make war during the daytime, then make peace during the nighttime. :) I love Italians.


We learned about Galileo, who grew up in Pisa and allegedly dropped metal balls from the top of the tower to prove that two metal balls of different masses will fall with the same acceleration. Pretty neat to think that everyone wearing a wristwatch can thank him for his studies.  
Il Colosseo 

Statue of a vestal virgin. Heads were often removed from statues because they were easiest to carry

They brought me this as a special surprise when I declined meat

Josh got bad sunburn and his head swelled

Fontana dei quattro fiumi by Bernini

This cute old couple were dancing to gypsy accordion music near St. Francis' basilica in Assissi

Assissi

The mountains of Umbria

Assissi

:) We also saw one that said, "Please don't sit on the choir"

Sienna


The world's first local city hall

Inside the leaning tower of Pisa. The metal pole is perfectly vertical. Trippy!



As we toured the neighborhood of the Tortuca (Turtle) today

Monday, May 12, 2014

Arriving in Siena

Well, I intended to share more of my adventures in Rome last year than I did. I will have to play catch up later.

Have you ever had so much good food set in front of you that you were sorry you couldn't eat it all? I feel like my experience in Italy have been very much like that so far. Every cathedral we visit is exquisite and took years of talent and hard work to make. Every view looking out over Rome or Tuscany is breathtaking. Every meal makes your mouth water. But after a certain point your mind can't count the hours it must have taken to make a church, you have to stop letting the views take your breath away so you don't suffocate, and if your mouth doesn't stop watering you will drool on yourself. So I am just enjoying as much as I can and being grateful for the things that I would enjoy if I had room in my limited heart for them.

Siena is a gorgeous medieval town divided into 17 neighborhoods, called contrade, each with a mascot (Goose, Tower, Shell, Wave, etc). They have a horse race every year in the main piazza, and good fortune and bragging rights are on the line. This is a HUGE deal! Passions and tempers can run deep between rivaling contrade, and to come in second place is worse than coming in later, because it means you almost won.

My host family is the Carlini family. They are a sweet older couple with young hearts, kind eyes and amazing cooking skills. Their 24 year old son is smart and fun and studying to be a professor of medieval art. There are two poodles as well, Lily and Mimosa. They are a bit like paranoid old princesses, and every time you walk across the floor, or move suddenly, Mimosa starts barking like crazy, as if to say, "HEY! HEY! What are you doing in my house! Hey! Oh, it's you. Oh, ok. Well I'll let it slide this time." And Lily follows suit, "HEY! I don't know why we are barking but you are barking so I am barking! What's wrong? Somethings wrong! Oh, you stopped, ok." They do this even when their own family walks across the floor.

Our new babbo, Marco, informed us that we are in the Nicchio contrada; the team of the shell.

La vita e bella.